the DMZ

susan and i took a day trip with the USO to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) right on the border between North and South Korea. it was fascinating, tense, and sad. our grandparents' hometown is actually located in North Korea (pre-war time). During the war, my grandparents (on both sides) fled to the south. my dad's mother was actually pregnant with my father when she tried to cross the border. fortunately, all of my grandparents successfully crossed the border to safety.

While on our drive, we passed through a village called "Reunification Village" where all families must be in their homes with doors and windows sealed at dark since this village would be most vulnerable to a North Korean attack being so near the DMZ. The village area is not under the jurisdiction of South Korea (?) so the citizens there have no obligation to pay taxes or serve the army (All South Korean men have a military requirement of 22 months.)

Korea is the only nation to remain divided. The tension between both nations is palpitable. We were warned very strongly by both our Korean tour guide (who spoke english) and our U.S. soldier tour guide that we were not permitted to take photos unless given permission to do so. During the tour we saw the JSA, the area where North Korean and South Korean leaders meet for negotiations. We actually saw North Korean soldiers standing on the steps of their building with binoculars in their hands. Apparently, the North Korean building, which faces the South Korean building, has many cameras that take photos of the DMZ tourists to use as negative propaganda against the rest of the world. Our U.S. tour guide told us very sternly that we "do NOT make any gesture of ANY kind toward the North Korean soldiers. We will NOT communicate with them in ANY way as they will react if they EVER feel any sort of threat." One of the North Korean guards actually waved toward us, perhaps to get a rise out of us tourists? We were told North Korean men have a military obligation of 8-10 years! Also, the North Korean soldiers that are visible to South Korea are said to be well-fed to give a good impression of their country, though much of the country is impoverished and hungry.

We were able to take photos inside the JSA where South Korean soldiers stand guard. All Korean soldiers that work at the DMZ must possess at least a black belt in TaeKwonDo. One soldier I took a picture of had a black belt in TaeKwonDo, Jiujitsu, and Hapkido. U.S. Soldiers also are also placed there based on their excellent records and abilities.

It was a chilling sight to see such tension, even in their stance. I suppose witnessing such intensity made me realize how hostile the relationship between North Korea and much of the world remains.

this photo is of the North Korean building. You can see a soldier standing at the top of the steps. He must have found all of us very interesting as he continued to look at us through his binoculars.

North Korean money I got from the DMZ shop. The photo is of Kim Il Sung, the father of the current dictator, Kim Jong Il.

Susan is standing at the Dora Observatory, which is a lookout point that juts out, very near the border of North Korea. It is said that on a clear day you can see where Kim Jong Il has erected his own gigantic bronze statue of himself very easily with binoculars. Unfortunately, it was a rainy day, so we couldn't seen a lot, but we were able to see the Wildlife Sanctuary between North and South Korea where various plants and animals of endangered species have thrived since no human contact has been made in the forest for over 56 years.

it was a sobering experience. i imagine we have family that still exist in North Korea and may not see them or ever know them. Not just our family, but hundreds of thousands of families were separated and long to see one another. I pray for a peaceful reunion and evil to be defeated.